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GUIDE TO 
SUCCESSFUL 
SQUAB RAISING 



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BY 



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MILTON O. JONES 



PRICE 50 CENTS 




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GUIDE TO 
SUCCESSFUL 
SQUAB RAISING 



BY 

MILTON O. JONES 



1909 



Published by 
MILTON O. JONES 



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Copyright by 

MILTON O. JONES 

1909 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Received 

APR 27 1909 

r< Ccpyrignt Entry 
oCaSS CK, XXc. No, 



INTRODUCTORY 

Owing to the large number of inquiries from visitors and corre- 
spondents for more detailed information on squab raising, I have 
decided to place before such as are interested this book, 'in which I 
have endeavored to set forth fully and clearly what I have learned by 
study and experience to be facts. The principal shortcoming of the 
majority of books which have already appeared on this subject seems 
to be the fact that they fail to lay sufficient stress on the more impor- 
tant subjects, and, lacking definite information, often leave the reader 
in doubt as to just what is meant. Of course, it is utterly impossible, 
in a book of this scope, to describe in minute detail every process 
involved, but all description of methods of procedure have been out- 
lined with due regard to the fact that no two persons do the same 
thing in exactly the same way; and for this reason more pains have 
been taken to show what to do rather than just how to do it. 

In my opinion, any person who does not shun work and who has 
an eye for the beauties of nature as well will certainly make a success 
of a business which combines so much pleasure with profit. There 
seems to be a very popular but erroneous belief that squab raising is 
a business which will take care of itself. The beginner should realize, 
however, that it requires as constant and systematic attention as does 
any other legitimate occupation. 

The true pigeon raiser does not treat his flock as he would a machine, 
throwing down a certain quantity of feed and calculating just how 
many squabs will be produced within a given time. He learns to know 
his birds, to be in sympathy with them, to afford them all possible 
necessities, and thus keeps his business on a paying basis, not by cutting 
down necessary expenses but by managing economically and turning 
his products to the best advantage. 

The purpose of this book is not to demonstrate the pecuniary 

possibilities attached to squab raising, for into this matter the personal 

equation enters largely. It is sufficient to point to the large number 

of pigeon and squab farms in existence to prove that the business 

can be carried on successfully. It is intended primarily as a guide 

for the experienced breeder as well as the inexperienced beginner, and 

it is sincerely hoped that it will be found of value to both. 

Respectfully, 

Milton O. Jones. 
Bergenfield, N. J., April, 1909. 



SUCCESSFUL 
SQUAB RAISING 



THE HOMER 



The pigeon which has excited the most wide-spread interest and 
won the greatest favor among both pigeon fanciers and squab raisers, 
as a whole, is undoubtedly the thoroughbred Homer. Its wonderful 
powers of sagacity, swiftness and endurance which have earned celeb- 
rity for it under the name of the Flying Homer, have united with its 




Blue-Barred Homer 



other excellent qualities to make the best and most efficient squab- 
breeding pigeon. 

It is large, sturdy, and compactly built, and it submits readily to 
confinement. Its breadth of shoulder, close-fitting wings, erect head 



and watchful eye suggest the abundance of latent energy which it 
possesses. Above all, it is a prolific breeder, producing a squab not 
abnormal in size, but a white-skinned, average- weight variety which 
finds a ready market anywhere. 

A flock of well-bred Homers can be safely expected to produce an 
average of eleven to twelve squabs a year per pair. Last year, the 
author's 700 mated pairs raised 8,450 squabs for market. 



THE DRAGOON 

I mention this variety because it has been associated for a long 
time with the Homer and is now found in the majority of lofts in this 
country, crossed in varying proportions with it. The Dragoon is one 
of the handsomest birds of the pigeon tribe, and is greatly esteemed 




Blue-Checkered Dragoon 

by some squab raisers. It is usually a little larger than the Homer and 
produces a larger squab. It is, however, not so prolific a breeder and 
its squabs require about five weeks to mature, while those of a straight 
Homer mature in four weeks. 

The Dragoon, properly crossed with a Homer will usually produce 
a larger squab in about the same length of time as would a straight 
Homer; and the presence of Dragoon blood in a flock of Homing 
pigeons is to be considered more advantageous than detrimental. 



HOW TO BEGIN 

MATED BIRDS. — The majority of those who engage in the squab 
business invite trouble by the way they begin. The tendency of novices 
seems to be to buy a flock of birds at random because they are cheap, 
without knowing whether they are mated, healthy or worked out, or 
even suitable for breeding purposes. Then, if, after several months 
of patient waiting, the owner does not realize the expected fortune, 
he disposes of the flock at a loss and ever after condemns the business. 
The successful squab raiser has to make a study of his occupation just 
as he would if he were the proprietor or manager of any other legit- 
mate business. The man who takes up squab raising in order to avoid 
work had better stay out of it. 

Few persons not acquainted with the breeding of pigeons under- 
stand fully just what is meant by the term "mated." When used in 
reference to pigeons, "mated" signifies "married." A mated pair 
consists of a cock and a hen which have married and are producing 
squabs. The term "pair" is used more commonly and means nothing. 
For example, a man has one hundred odd pigeons to sell; he calls 
them fifty pairs, but, for all the buyer knows, they may all be cocks. 
The prospective purchaser should remember that well-bred, healthy, 
mated birds cannot be procured at a low figure, while "pairs" of 
pigeons can be bought almost anywhere for a song. 

Unless he knows what he is about, the beginner should purchase 
his stock of a dealer who makes a business of pigeon raising and who 
is willing to guarantee his matings and to give a list of the pairs which 
he furnishes. The number of birds he buys should be commensurate 
with his experience, but the writer believes that he should start with 
not more than twenty-five pairs of mated pigeons and increase his 
flock only after he has gained enough experience to give them the 
requisite care and attention. 



SITE AND BUILDINGS 



As a rule, it is an advantage to the pigeon raiser to have his farm 
located within easy traveling distance of a large city or the place where 
he expects to market his squabs. In choosing the site and erecting the 
pigeon loft, the following general principles should be observed: 

Select dry, well-drained ground with a southern exposure. On no 
account locate the house on low ground or where the spot is shaded 
sufficiently to make it damp. If possible, face the building toward 
the south, or at least in such a direction that the interior as well as 
the flying-yard gets the direct sunlight the greater part of the day. 
Raise the building about a foot from the ground on brick piers to 
prevent dampness and to guard against the inroads of rats and mice. 



Build the loft in such a manner that a good system of ventilation may- 
be secured without causing draughts. 

Some successful pigeon raisers prefer to build their lofts separately 
in what is known as the colony style. There is a great deal to be said 
in favor of this method, but the chief objection to it is that the use of 
colony houses increases the work of feeding and cleaning, especially 
in winter, besides taking up more space and costing much more to 
build for the same number of birds than if the pens are all under one 
roof. 




A two-pen colony house and flying yards 



CAPACITY. — Experience demonstrates that the best results are 
obtained when not more than fifty pairs are kept together in one pen, 
and that such a pen should contain at least 72 square feet of floor space. 



PLAN. — The plan favored by the author (see page 9) provides 
for a house 12 feet wide, 11 feet high from foundation posts to ridge- 
pole, and may be of any length suitable for dividing into pens 8 feet 
wide. This plan also has the advantage of being so simple and uniform 
in construction that it can easily be added to from time to time. The 
front of the house faces the south. The plan allows for a passageway 
3 feet wide along the north side, separated from the pens by inch-mesh 
wire netting, and communicating with them by doors hung with 



'n 

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en 



spring hinges to prevent the possibiUty of their being left open. Where 
the chmate is cold in winter the floors should be double and the north 
wall double-lined. 



NEST-BOXES. — The nest-boxes are built against the partitions 
between adjoining pens. It is best to use % inch material in their 
construction as thinner boards are likely to warp. Each nesting space 
is 12 inches wide, 12 inches high and 12 inches deep. The floors of the 
nests are made to rest on cleats so that they may be readily removed 
during the process of cleaning. 

Enough nest-boxes should be provided to allow two boxes for each 
pair of breeders and to leave about a dozen extra ones over. A pair 
of birds, after choosing their nests, will continue to use the same ones 
for years unless driven out by another pair of house hunters. In this 
way much unnecessary loss both of eggs and squabs will be occasioned 
unless there are enough empty nest-boxes to give the birds their 
choice. Since the pen described above is designed to accommodate 
fifty pairs of mated pigeons, the number of boxes required would be 
about 112. 

The use of a glazed earthenware nesting-dish, or "nappy," 9 inches 
in diameter across the top, is strongly advised. These rest solidly on 
the floors of the nest-boxes and serve to hold the nests together as well 
as to keep the eggs and squabs from rolling out. Earthenware nappies 
are far superior to the wooden ones, for besides being more sanitary and 
serviceable, they are more easily handled and cleaned, since the wooden 
bowls have to be fastened to the floors of the nests to give them the 
necessary stability. 



LIGHT AND VENTILATION.— Plenty of light and ventilation is 
imperative. One of the cau.ses of damp, sweating walls and floors in 
winter is insufficient circulation of air. It must be remembered, how- 
ever, that a draught is as bad as no ventilation at all, and either will 
give the birds roup or cold in the head, besides sowing the seed for 
canker and other diseases. 

A good system of ventilation may be obtained by cutting a hole in 
each gable of the house about 2 feet square and fitting them with 
sliding window sashes. An opening covered with wire netting should 
then be left in the partition between each pen in line with those in the 
gables. 

For the double purpose of light and additional ventilation, there 
should be two sliding sashes in the south side of each pen, and, in a 
long house, one opposite every second partition on the north side of 
the house. 

I have found this arrangement to be very satisfactory, and with 
ordinary care a free circulation of air can be maintained in almost 
any weather without exposing the birds to draughts. In the case of 
an exceptionally long house, it may be necessary to put additional 
ventilators in the roof to carry out foul air. 



As a protection against storms, the openings in the gables may be 
fitted with louver windows outside of the sliding sashes, which may be 
kept open all winter by employing the simple expedient of tacking 
heavy cheese-cloth over them. 

The exit holes are two in number and are located above the south 
windows under the eaves. These should be 6 inches high and 6 inches 
wide, and should be furnished with a 6-inch lighting board inside and 
outside. Slides may be fitted to these pigeon holes so that the birds 
may be confined either indoors or out in the fly in order to catch them; 
but, with this exception, they should be left open all year around. 

OTHER REQUIREMENTS. — A new house should receive a thor- 
ough coating of carbolated whitewash on the inside several days before 
the birds are to be placed in it. This subject will be treated at greatei 
length under Whitewashing. 

Each coop should be provided with a two-gallon, galvanized -iron 
drinking-fountain, so constructed that it can be easily cleaned. Banty 
Drinking Fountains will be found to answer this purpose very satis- 
factorily. These are made with the bottoms removable so that the 
interior can be readily swabbed out. They may be obtained at any 
poultry supply house at about $1.25 each. 

Another useful, although not absolutely necessary, addition to the 
furnishings of a pen is a galvanized iron, sectional grit-box, designed 
to hold'three different articles; for example, oyster shells, charcoal and 
pigeon grit. Salt should never be kept in this or any other metal box. 
These boxes cost about 50 cents each. 



THE FLY 



SIZE. — -Ample room should be provided for the pigeons to exercise 
in, but lack of space and the expense of building a large fly and keeping 
it in condition limit its extent, while the advantage of a low cage is 
self-evident, since all the catching and transferring of birds ought to 
be confined as far as possible to it. 

Several prominent pigeon raisers, I believe, advocate the use of a 
flying-yard reaching as high as the ridgepole of the house, thus allowing 
the birds to sun themselves on the southern slope of the roof. I have 
tried this plan, and, though it may look very nice as a theory, all I 
can say about it is that I condemm its use absolutely in practical squab 
raising. My experience has shown that the pigeons will squat on the 
roof for hours together and actually grow fat and lazy, instead of going 
to nest and tending their squabs properly. Besides, the breeder will 
find that the birds, when out in the fly, can easily keep out of his 
reach, and that he is almost as helpless in the control of his flock as if 
they were allowed to fly at large. 

12 



On the other hand, in a low fly, the birds soon become accustomed 
to the proximity of the caretaker, and it is no trouble to catch them 
with the aid of an ordinary crab net. 

Having taken all these things into consideration, I have concluded 
that the most convenient height of the flying-yard is about 8 feet. 
The length ought to be at least 25 feet — 30 feet would be better — and 
the width would be 8 feet, or the same as the width of ^he coop. 

Use 2"x3" spruce posts for the framework of the fly and l"x2'' 
furring strips for supporting the overhead netting, unless the span is 
more than 8 feet; then it will be found necessary to use heavier 
material. The upright posts should be erected 6 feet apart, not with 
one end in the ground, but only staked to the ground. This prevents 




View of a five-pen house and flying yards 



the posts from rotting; and the stakes may be easily replaced when 
decayed. Two strips of inch-mesh wire— one 4 feet wide and the other 
3 feet wide — can be used to cover the sides and ends of the fly, and facing 
strips of I" material should be so placed that one, 6 inches wide, rests 
on the ground, and the second, 4 inches wide, is flush with the tops of 
the posts. A third 4-inch strip can then be nailed on so that one width 
of 4-foot netting will reach from it to the bottom facing strip, and a 
width of 3-foot netting will cover the remaining space between it and 
the top strip. 

Running-boards 6 inches wide should be placed completely around 
the inside of the fly, resting on brackets about 4 feet from the ground, 
to serve as roosting places for the birds during the daytime. Roosting- 

. 13 



poles stretched across the fly never ought to be tolerated, as they are 
both inconvenient for the keeper and dangerous to the birds. 

Wire-covered doors 6 feet high and 2 feet wide should be made in 
each partition between adjoining yards, and smaller doors may be 
put in the farther end of each yard to facilitate the distribution of 
sand and the removal of snow in the winter. All doors should be 
equipped with spring hinges and hooks. 

. OTHER NECESSITIES. — Level the ground within the fly and 
cover with a 4-inch layer of clean, sharp sand. 

Procure a 20-inch galvanized-iron pan abaut 4 inches deep for each 




Squab house and flying yards as viewed from south side 



pen, to use as a bath-pan. If running water is conveniently at hand it 
would be a good plan to convey it by means of piping laid on the ground 
through the ends of the yards farthest from the house, making the 
piping pitch toward the farther end so that it can be drained out in 
cold weather. A faucet could then be placed in each fly and the bath- 
pans filled on the spot. This eliminates the hard labor of carrying 
water, which, in the case of a large flock of pigeons, is quite an item. 

It is not good policy for a beginner to build an elaborate house. 
The outline here given briefly describes what may be termed an ideal 
pigeon house, for the purpose of aiding the squab raiser, who has 
already had some experience in that line, to build up his plant. A 



14 



beginner, who is totally unacquainted with the care of pigeons, had 
better utilize some existing building for a short time, or erect a tem- 
porary structure in accordance with the general features of the plan 
outlined, until he feels confident that he has enough experience to 
warrant the enlargement of his plant. Some of the most conspicuous 
failures have been caused by starting on too large a scale with no 
experience in managing a flock of pigeons nor any knowledge concern- 
ing their habits. 



FEEDING 



The feeding question is one of the most important features of 
pigeon raising, and one upon which many successful breeders seem to 
hold different opinions. Waiving regularity and cleanliness, which any 
person of ordinary intelligence and industry might maintain, the proper 
feeding of the stock is of utmost importance in successful pigeon 
raising, for it requires the exercise of good judgment as well. I do 
not wish to convey the idea that proper kind of stock and proper care 
are not of primary importance, but that to feed well the breeder must 
guard against two extremes — overfeeding and underfeeding. Besides, 
he ought to have a reasonably accurate knowledge of how to vary the 
proportions of the different feeds in order to meet any conditions'such 
as arise from the season of the year, the weather and the health of the 
birds. 

As the feed involves the principal expenditure connected with 
squab raising, the novice may be tempted to "economize" at the 
expense of his flock. He should remember, however, that economy in 
the shape of inferior grain or an insufficient quantity of wholesome 
feed affects the squabs in an extraordinary degree. When there is a 
lack of feed the old birds are able to fight for a share, but the helpless 
squab will not be properly fed. Sour, musty grain or cheap substi- 
tutes, such as brewers' grain, run down the flock and lay the birds open 
to disease. 

Almost every pigeon raiser recommends a different method of 
feeding. I have tried many of the ways suggested, but these experi- 
ments have only strengthened me in the belief that to feed a clean-up 
feed in an open trough, located inside the pigeon house, is the only 
sensible and practical method. This method is approved by several 
squab raisers whose success I know is due to good management. 

To get good results in all seasons of the year and under all conditions 
a variety of feed is necessary. Pigeons in their original, free state were 
able to select such food as their appetites dictated, and they ought to 
be able to do the same within reason when confined. 

VARIETIES OF FEED.— The feed should be kept in a dry place, 
well protected against rats and mice. The most economical plan is to 

IS 



build a long bin about 3 feet high and 2 feet wide divided into sections 
to hold the different kinds of grain. 

Cracked corn, red wheat, Kaffir corn and Canada peas are the staple 
feeds. Cracked corn fattens the squabs and gives them the much- 
prized yellow skin, though, fed in excess, it overheats the blood, espe- 
cially in summer, and is frequently the cause of canker, an infective 
disease almost impossible of cure. White wheat should never be fed to 




Interior of squab house, showing passage-way 



pigeons as it causes bowel trouble. New corn and wheat not properly 
cured also have a similar effect. It is advisable not to feed either of these 
until December if old grain can be procured. Kaffir corn is conducive 
to white squabs, while wheat tends to produce an opposite result. 
Canada peas are a very important food and are greatly prized by the 
birds. They are good muscle makers and strength producers. 

German millet, silver-gray buckwheat, hempseed and rice are extra 
feeds to be given at regular intervals, or when circumstances require 

i6 



their use. Hempseed and millet are given as tonics and especially to 
aid the birds to shed their feathers during the moulting season. Buck- 
wheat may be fed with good results when a change is desired, if the 
birds will eat it. It is similar in effect to com and Kaffir com, but is 
usually dear and hard to procure. Rice is very effective in correcting 
looseness of the bowels. 

TIME OF FEEDING.— The birds should be fed twice a day and it 
is very important that the time mentioned should be strictly adhered 
to. In winter they should be fed at about 7.30 a.m. andS p.m.; in 
summer, about 7 a.m. and 4 p.m. These afternoon hours are selected 
so that the birds have ample time to feed their young before twilight. 

METHOD OF FEEDING.— Always feed indoors, using a wooden 
trough placed in the middle of the coop. For fifty pairs of birds this 
trough ought to be about 4 feet long, 1 foot wide and \}4 inches deep. 

The best plan to pursue in feeding is to begin at the end of the squab 
house farthest from the exit door and pass quietly down the passage- 
way, throwing down only one-half the full portion to each pen of birds. 
About an hour after, go through the house again and feed whatever 
more seems to be required, as indicated by the appearance of the feed 
troughs. A two-quart grocer's scoop is essential for convenience in 
feeding. 

RATIONS. — The morning mixture in winter should consist of equal 
parts of cracked corn, red wheat and Canada peas. The afternoon feed 
in winter should be composed of equal portions of cracked corn, Kaffir 
com and Canada peas. 

As spring advances, the amount of corn in both mixtures should 
be decreased gradually (of course the quantities of the other grain 
must be increased to keep the total amount constant), until the pro- 
portion of com has been reduced to about one-third as much as of any 
one of the other grains. Around the first of October begin to increase 
the proportion of com again until the maximum — equal portions — 
has been reached about December 1st. 

The quantity of feed required for fifty pairs of pigeons in breeding 
condition, with the average number of squabs to care for, is about 
four quarts at each feeding. With a large number of squabs in the 
nests, it may be found necessary to give them as much as five quarts 
at a feeding. 

SPECIAL FEEDS. — Twice a week, say on Wednesday and Sunday, 
add a one-fourth portion of German millet to the afternoon ration, 
and on Monday and Friday feed hempseed in the same way. In the 
moulting season, which lasts from August to November, millet and 
hempseed should be fed in larger quantities, as they both aid the birds 
to moult and act as tonics. Excessive feeding of millet is marked by 
a frothy, yellow discharge from the bowels and is especially noticeable 

17 



with the squabs. Too much hemp has a tendency to cause vertigo. 
When these grains are being fed in appreciable quantities the birds 
should be watched carefully for any bad effects, and the portions 
regulated accordingly. 

The reader must remember that the foregoing are only general 
principles to be amended more or less by the breeder's good judgment 
and common sense. It would be impossible to lay down a law for 
feeding for every specific case which might occur. 

FRESH WATER. — The two-gallon drinking fountain previously 
mentioned should be filled with fresh water every morning before 
feeding. In cold weather this quantity of water is generally sufficient 
to last a flock of one hundred birds all day, but in summer the foun- 
tains should always be refilled before the afternoon feeding. They 
should be removed when the birds begin to go to roost for the night, 
and thoroughly swabbed out and stood aside to drain dry until the 
next morning. The fountains should be disinfected once a month, 
and more often if they are so constructed that they cannot be opened. 
For this purpose use a strong solution of any good disinfectant. 

' SALT, ETC. — Salt, in some form, is absolutely necessary to the 
health of the birds. The best way to feed it clear is to keep a dish of 
ordinary table salt before them at all times. The use of the lump salt 
should be avoided as it becomes filthy and melts into a dirty brine, 
which the birds will drink rather than try to break off pieces from the 
lump. As a great many pigeons like to gorge themselves on loose salt, 
I advise the use of Foust's Health Grit, a medicated grit which con- 
tains some salt. If a little ordinary salt is mixed with the grit no other 
form of salt is required and this gorging is prevented. 

A small box should also be kept in each pen to hold charcoal, ground 
oyster-shells and grit. When buying any of these take care to procure 
a size suitable for pigeons. 



GROWTH OF SOUABS 



Almost invariably a pair of pigeons have two eggs at a setting. I 
have never positively known a hen to lay more than this number at 
one setting, although three and even four eggs may sometimes be 
found together in the same nest. This merely indicates, however, 
that a strange pair have occupied the same nest either by accident or 
coincidence in choosing their homes. This can easily happen in the 
absence of the true owners, for the hen rarely sits on the first egg 
steadily until the second one is laid. If more than two eggs are found 
in one nest, it is advisable to leave them there until they hatch, pro- 
vided that all the eggs are known to have been laid within several days 

i8 



of each other; but if an egg is deposited in a nest when those already 
laid are a week old , it should be removed to a nest containing one or 
more eggs of the same date. 

Both the parent birds take turns sitting on the eggs, the cock stay- 
ing on the nest from about 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., when the hen goes on 
and covers the eggs until the next forenoon. This uniformij;y is often 
of great aid in determining the sex of a mated bird. 

On the nineteenth day after the laying of the first egg, or seventeen 
days after the laying of the second, one or both squabs are usually 
hatched. It is safe to assume, although not always true, that the first 




View of nests, showing eggs and squabs in various stages 



egg laid, and therefore the first to hatch, contains a male squab. It 
is commonly believed that each setting of eggs produces a male and a 
female. 

For the first five days after hatching, the squabs are fed with 
pigeon milk, a fluid which the parent birds pump from their crops into 
the youngsters' throats. This gradually thickens until at the end of 
eight or nine days the squabs are receiving the whole grain just as the 
old birds pick it up. At the age of three weeks, the squabs are almost 
completely covered with half-grown feathers. When four weeks of 
age they are completely feathered and are preparing to leave the nest. 
At this age, if bred from Homer stock, they are most suitable for 
market. 



19 



LIGHT-WEIGHT SQUABS.— Scrawny, light-weight squabs may 
be produced by a number of different causes; the most common are 
inbred or mongrel stock, ill-fed birds and disease. If the squabs do 
not seem to be well-fed, while the old birds are large and healthy, a 
judicious regulation of the feed will accomplish the desired result. 
But if the trouble can be traced to any other of the above-mentioned 
causes the quickest remedy is to strike directly at the root of the evil. 
Get rid of the inferior stock or, in the case of a dangerous disease, 
use the hatchet. 



TRANSFERRING SQUABS.— In the best regulated lofts, among 
the healthiest flock of birds, a puny squab will frequently be found, 
perhaps in the same nest with a plump, healthy one. This is most 
liable to happen in the moulting season. If such a case is noticed before 
the squab in question is three weeks old, simply transfer the puny 
youngster to another nest containing one squab of the same age, whose 
parents are good feeders. In this way its life may not only be saved, 
but it may be transformed into a squab equal to, and often better than, 
the average. 

If, from any cause, both squabs in a nest die while still in the 
"pigeon-milk" stage, or both eggs of a setting are destroyed shortly 
before they are due to hatch, give the parent birds a youngster from 
another nest in order to give them an opportunity to feed off the milk. 
Neglect to do this will often cause the milk to sour in the crops of the 
parents and may ruin them for breeding purposes for some time. 



PREPARING SQUABS FOR MARKET 



The standard size of dressed squabs is eight pounds to the dozen. 
Those raised from Homer stock are usually ready to market four weeks, 
or slightly less, from the time they are hatched. Dragoon squabs 
require almost five weeks to reach this stage. 

Care should be taken, when collecting the squabs previous to killing, 
neither to take immature squabs nor to overlook any that are prepar- 
ing to leave the nest. The former will generally be light-weights as 
their flesh is soft and flabby, and not well developed. Dressing such 
squabs will be difficult also, on account of the number of "pin-feathers" 
which cover them. On the other hand, the Homer squab, five weeks old, 
when dressed for market has a decided "pigeon" look. The skin has 
become coarse, the flesh hardened, and the bones sharp. Squabs 
having this appearance are rated as "pigeons" and command a com- 
paratively small price. A little practice will enable the breeder to go 
through the lofts and choose the squabs for killing simply by noticing 
whether they are sufficiently developed and feathered. 

20 



PRELIMINARIES. — Whoever makes a business of squab raising 
should have a regular killing day and shipping day each week. The 
best time to take out the squabs is either late in the afternoon on the 
day preceeding, after the squabs have been fed, or on the morning of 
the killing day before the birds have been fed. This method insures 
empty crops in the dressed squabs, a very important detail, for full 
crops detract from the appearance of the shipment as well as from its 
market value. If it should be found necessary to kill a squab whose 
crop is full, remove the grain before cooling the squab by inserting a 
knife blade into the crop and pressing out the feed. 

As the squabs are collected they should be put into a basket or 
small crate and taken to the killing room, where they should be placed 
in compartments, each having a capacity of only fifteen or twenty 
birds. This arrangement prevents crowding and suffocation of the 
squabs in hot weather, which is liable to occur if they are all placed 
together in one large cage. 

KILLING. — For this purpose use an ordinary killing-knife or a long, 
thin-bladed penknife. Grasp the squab firmly in the left hand, holding 
the head in position with the thumb and the first finger. Insert the 
knife into the mouth, cut the jugular vein well down in the throat, 
then draw the knife upward, cutting into the brain. Suspend the 
squab from a noose, head downward, taking care to secure the ends of 
the wings as well as thfe feet, and let it bleed freely. 

DRESSING. — The squabs should be plucked while warm as the 
feathers can be removed more easily then than when they have become 
cool. For this reason, only as many squabs should be killed ahead as 
can be plucked while they are warrn. First pull out all the quills from 
the tail and wings. Then, beginning with the neck and breast, rernove 
all the body feathers, taking care not to tear the skin. Pluck the wings 
clean and lastly remove whatever pin-feathers and fluff there may be 
left. It is customary, when dressing squabs, to leave a margin of 
about an inch of feathers around the head of each squab. 

With practice, a picker may become so expert as to pluck clean 
twelve squabs in an hour. The usual number which a person can 
pluck, however, is about ten an hour. 

The soft body-feathers can be made a source of considerable reve- 
nue if they are kept separate from the quills. They are often used 
as a substitute for chicken or geese feathers in the making of cushions 
and pillows. 

COOLING. — As soon as each squab is plucked it should be dropped 
into a tub of moderately cold water (not ice-cold) to drive out the 
animal heat slowly. After all the squabs have been plucked, carefully 
wash their mouths and feet clean of all blood and dirt and fold their 
wings across their backs. Put them into a tub of ice-cold water for a 
short time to become thoroughly chilled ; then lay them out on a table 
or hang them on a rack to drain. 



SORTING. — Although eight-pound squabs are the average size, 
seven- and nine-pound squabs are quite common, and some as heavy 
as ten or eleven pounds to the dozen are often raised. If the squabs 
are to be shipped to a dealer who prefers to have the different sizes 
separated, first sort them, then weigh them carefully by the dozen. 
They may be packed side by side or tied up in bunches of six for ship- 
ping. Even if the consignee does not state that they are to be sorted , 
it is always advisable to do so, as it secures the producer against careless 
or dishonest weighing. 

SHIPPING. — For shipment to a distant market by express a strong 
wooden box should be used. Place a thin layer of excelsior on the 
bottom of the box and, on top of that, a layer of coarse, cracked ice. 
Above this pack in alternate layers of squabs and ice, finishing with a 
generous covering of ice. Place over this a sheet of heavy wrapping 
paper and nail on the cover securely. Every package of squabs sent 
by express should bear the express company's "rush" tag. It is safe 
to ship squabs without ice only in very cold weather. 

If the breeder is assured of a regular weekly supply he will find it 
to his advantage to cultivate private trade, especially that of hotels 
and retail poultry and meat markets. In this way he will get a slightly 
better price for his squabs than he could by selling direct to com- 
mission dealers or wholesale houses. 



RAISING SQUABS FOR BREEDERS 



SELECTION. — In the selection of squabs to be raised for breeding 
purposes, only the strongest ones from the healthiest and best breeders 
should be considered. However, as each pair of. squabs are almost sure to 
be a male and a female, and as the larger is almost invariably the male, 
it is not good policy to save only the larger bird in each nest. It is 
more advisable to save a small majority of hens, since their mortality 
during the first moult is higher than that of the cocks. 

The best time to keep youngsters is from the latter part of March 
until the end of June. They then escape severe cold weather and are 
not subjected to the worst heat of summer until they have passed the 
critical stage. Besides, they will be ready to mate in time to breed for 
the winter trade and high prices. 

BANDING. — The youngsters selected should be banded before 
they leave the nest, or when between three and four weeks old. For 
this purpose use open numbered bands of German silver. These can 
be purchased at poultry supply houses at $1.50 a hundred. A record 
of these bandings should be entered temporarily in a sm.all note book 
so that, when the birds begin to mate, nest-mates can be distingui-^hed 



and inbreeding prevented. The following form of keeping this record 
is advised. 

251 



252 
253 

254 



This signifies that numbers 252 and 253 are nest-mates and should 
not be permitted to mate together; and that 251 and 254 are each odd 
birds without nest-mates. 

If possible, leave the youngsters under the care of the old birds 
until they are able to feed themselves and have learned to fly about 
inside the coop, which they usually begin to do when about five weeks 
of age. It is even better practice to let them remain in the breeding 
pen until they are able to fly outside. The principal objection to this 
is, however, that, among a large flock of birds, these youngsters are 
liable to be overlooked and allowed to grow up in the breeding pen, 
although they can easily be distinguished from the older birds by their 
length of bill and the absence of the white wattle. 

When they have reached the age of five or six weeks, as is desired, 
remove the youngsters from the breeding loft and place them in a pen 
reserved for young birds only, which should be fitted up with nest- 
boxes in a similar manner to the regular breeding pen, so that the 
young birds can remain in these quarters until they have mated. As 
the birds are being transferred, pull out all their tail feathers, for they 
often have difficulty in shedding these in the first moult. This moult 
occurs when the youngsters are about two months old, and inability 
to moult at a time when the bird is naturally in a weakened condition 
is often fatal. This simple remedy has also frequently been known to 
save the life of a matured bird, as the tail feathers are a heavy drag for 
a sick bird to carry. 

GENERAL CARE. — Never allow the youngsters to remain outside 
at night. For the first few nights in the new quarters it may be found 
necessary to put some of them inside, but they soon learn to go in at 
sundown after they have become acquainted with the new surround- 
ings. 

Always confine them indoors up to the age of three months until 
they have finished their morning feed, and do not let them out at all 
in damp or rainy weather. 

See that the drinking water is fresh and pure at all times and once 
a week place a piece of stone lime as large as a walnut in the drinking 
water. Tincture of gentian (see tonics) should be given as a tonic in 
the drinking water once a week, in the quantity of one tablespoonful 
to a gallon of water. 

Feed the youngsters the same rations as the rest of the birds 
receive, with the exception that not so large a portion of Canada peas 
is required. They do not seem to relish these as much as the breeding 
birds do. 

23 



MATING 



Just as properly mated birds are necessary to the beginner's success, 
so is an accurate knowledge of how to mate pigeons indispensable to 
the pigeon raiser. Without exception, the proper mating of the birds 
is the most important detail of the business, the value of which cannot 
be too strongly emphasized; for it is safe to say that either neglect or 
ignorance of this fundamental principle has been the cause of four- 
fifths of the failures, all of which have had a tendency to bring the 
business into bad repute. 

It is important that all unmated birds be kept in a coop entirely 
separate from the breeding stock. This coop should be furnished with 
nest-boxes and all exit holes should be equipped with slides that can 
be operated by cords from without the pen. 

The first signs of a pair of birds mating are "driving," and "cud- 
dling" in a nest. In the former case the cock always drives the hen; 
in the latter the cock coaxes the hen to the nest. Young birds may be 
expected to show these signs any time after they have reached the 
age of five months. Although none of these maneuvers is to be taken 
seriously the experienced breeder will keep an eye on the pair and 
watch for developments. If they are observed to drive continuously, 
the two birds should be caught and their numbers noted. This may 
be accomplished in several ways. If there are two persons at hand, 
each chooses a bird and, while one person pursues his with a long- 
handled net, the other watches the second bird and points it out after 
the first has been caught. When one person is working alone, he 
should catch one bird and mark it conspicuously with a colored ribbon 
on its leg. Then, when the two begin to drive again, he can catch the 
second bird, while the marked bird can easily be secured afterward. 

After their numbers have been noted the mating birds should be 
left undisturbed until their eggs have been laid. They may then be 
caught again and their numbers verified. But if the birds are nest- 
mates, which may be ascertained if a record' of the young birds has 
been kept as advised, separate them or sell one. 

Before the pair are placed in the permanent breeding pen, they 
should be allowed to raise their first pair of squabs, thus removing 
any possible doubt as to whether they are mated. It is well to keep 
in mind that, in practical squab raising, a pair of pigeons cannot be 
considered a mated pair until they have produced squabs. 

TELLING SEX. — There is no infallible method of ascertaining the 
sex of each one of a flock of birds by sight. The only positive method 
is by observation. The cock of a pair always "drives" the hen. The 
male bird occupies the nest during the daytime from about 10 a.m. 
to 4 P.M., while the female covers the nest during the night and early 
morning. In appearance the head and neck of the cock are more 
round and full than those of the hen, and the cock is more likely to 
strut around and play the bully. 

24 



KEEPING THE RECORD.— As the mated pairs are transferred to 
the breeding quarters enter their numbers, color and sex in a perma- 
nent record book kept for each pen separately as follows : 

cock 251 — blue-barred 

hen 253 — red-checkered 

cock 252 — blue-checkered 

hen 254 — black 

The value of this record will be demonstrated to the pigeon raiser 
in many ways. For example, if one bird of a pair should die, its mate 
must be removed at once. In this case all he has to do is to catch the 
birds which correspond to the description given in the record of the 
one he wants, until he secures the right one. It is a good plan, when 
entering the colors, to make a memorandum of any unusual markings. 
This record insures the squab raiser against any trouble caiised by 
having an unknown odd bird in the breeding pen, and no flock of 
pigeons can be kept in proper working condition without it. A single, 
unmated cock or hen has been known to go from one nest to another, 
fighting with every bird it meets, without regard for eggs or squabs, 
and completely upsetting a pen of steady breeders. 



GENERAL MANAGEMENT 



Healthy, mated birds, well-built houses and wholesome feed do 
not always insure success. The welfare of a flock of pigeons may often 
depend upon the observance of details which may seem insignificant 
or unnecessary to the uninitiated. The pigeon raiser should not be 
satisfied with the knowledge that he has started in the right way and 
depend on that for success; he should endeavor to keep his flock in 
the best condition and up to the highest standard. 

CLEANING. — It is important that the lofts be cleaned regularly 
once every week or ten days. In a large plant, this must necessarily 
be made a part of each day's work. Some pigeon raisers have been 
known to advocate cleaning once every season, making the objection 
that greater frequency disturbs the birds. Such a practice would be 
a decided menace to the health of the flock. 

Enter the pen quietly, and, with as little uproar as possible, remove 
the nest floors one at a time and scrape off the droppings with a flat 
trowel. Nest-boxes containing either eggs or very young squabs need 
not be cleaned, but should be left until the squabs are about half- 
grown. Scrape all refuse onto the floor and disinfect any damp or 
foul-smelling nest by scattering in it about a spoonful of air-slacked 
lime, carbolated by the addition of crude carbolic acid in the quantity 
of about a cupful to a peck of lime. After scraping the floor thoroughly 
with a spade and removing the refuse, sprinkle about a pint of carbo- 



lated lime over the floor, particularly in the corners or where the floor 
is damp, and spread evenly over it a bucket of clean, dry sand. 

Although at first the birds may be rather timid at the approach 
of the cleaner, they will soon become accustomed to his presence if he 
proceeds slowly and deliberately and gives them no cause to become 
frightened. I have some breeders that will sit close on their nests even 
while the "nappies" are being removed so that the nest-boxes can be 
cleaned. 

In cold weather, care should be taken not to remain in one pen 
long enough for any eggs or squabs which may be left uncovered to 
become chilled. When the temperature is much below freezing point 
it is not safe to stay in one pen longer than fifteen minutes at a time. 
Under these conditions it is a good plan to clean two pens at once, 
moving from one to the other alternately. 

The flies should be cleaned out once every three months. Rake 
the droppings and feathers from the sand with a light, fine-toothed 
rake and scatter about two quarts of carbolated lime in the corners 
and under the running-boards. Work in the lime well with a rake, 
loosening the sand at the same time. About twice a year — in the 
early spring and again in the fall — a layer of clean sand should be 
added. 

WHITEWASHING. — When a new pen is opened up for occupation 
it should receive two thorough coatings of whitewash, and every year 
or two thereafter another coat should be applied if a convenient 
opportunity occurs. The free use of dry. carbolated lime when clean- 
ing obviates the necessity of very frequent whitewashing. 

In preparing whitewash, the lime should be .slacked several weeks 
before it is to be used. To do this, place several lumps of unslacked 
lime in a tub and pour over them a little cold water, which will break 
up the lime into small pieces. Every few days add a little water until 
the lime has slacked to the consistency of a thick paste. This forms 
the foundation of the whitewash. 

The following formula for preparing whitewash which appeared 
in "The Feather" of August, 1907, will be used with good results: 

" To each peck of lime, after m.ixed to the proper consistency, glue 
water is added, made as follows: One pound of good quality ground 
glue thoroughly dissolved and mixed into the amount of wash; add 
one pint of rock salt to each peck of lime." 

Apply with a small whitewash brush, taking care to fill all cracks 
and crevices. 

BATHING. — The birds take great delight in bathing in summer 
and in winter they will break a thin coating of ice in order to get into 
the water. In warm weather they should be allowed to bathe two or 
three times a week, but in winter the bath should be restricted to warm, 
sunny weather, so that the birds have an opportunity to become 
thoroughly dry during the wannest part of the day. The bath 
should be given about ten oclock in the morning. If the water becomes 

26 



dirty and the pigeons still evince a desire to bathe, refill the pan with 
fresh water. Always empty the pans before the afternoon feeding, so 
that the birds have little cause to drink from the foul water. Never 
use the same pan for both drinking and bathing purposes. 

The installing of the pipe system as described in another part of this 
book is strongly advised in a large plant where runnin'g water is at 
hand ; it will pay for itself in a short time. 

NESTING MATERIAL.— A plentiful supply of fine, short tobacco 
stems should be kept in each pen for the birds to use for nesting mate- 
rial. The use of these is a positive safeguard against vermin, botli on 
the parent birds as well as the squabs. When fine stems can be 
obtained no other material, such as hay or straw, need be used to 
make a soft nest. 



DISEASES AND REMEDIES 



With due regard to proper care and sanitary surroundings, there 
should be little trouble from sickness and disease. As a rule a seriously 
sick or diseased pigeon should be killed; it does not pay to attempt a 
temporary cure nor to risk contagion. When any sickness or disease 
manifests itself, seek out the cause, and that being removed the trouble 
will disappear. It is good policy on general principles to use one cer- 
tain drinking-fountain continually for each pen of birds, to prevent 
the spreading of any contagious disease before it is discovered. 

CANKER. — This is a dangerous infective disease which, when 
once acquired, often lies dormant in the system, only to appear after 
long intervals when the bird is subjected to a new diet or is in a weak- 
ened condition. Canker usually appears in the ear or in the mouth. 
Its presence in the latter is indicated by a discharge of yellow, cheesey 
matter from the mouth, which is known as soft canker, or by a hard, 
yellow lump in the throat. A yellow diarrhea, usually accompanies 
either of these symptoms. 

Filthy surroundings, foul water, unwholesome feed and draughts 
are the principal causes, but, as it soinetimes occurs in flocks that have 
the best of care, it is claimed that the disease is hereditary. When a 
squab or old bird has become affected, remove it from the pen and kill 
it, for no superficial treatment will suffice, since the root is generally 
located deep down in the system. 

As a preventive keep salt before the birds at all times. A small 
piece of alum, or ten drops of a 50% mixture of glycerine and refined 
carbolic acid in the drinking water once a week, when the disease is 
prevalent in a flock, is a good remedy. 

To guard against this disease, be careful where you procure your 
stock, give only sound feed and pure water and avoid draughts. 

27 



VERTIGO. — A bird aflflicted with vertigo twists its head over its 
shoulder and walks in a dizzy fashion, often falling. It is a disease 
which is not thoroughly understood but its appearance can almost 
always be traced to an overfeed of hempseed. A bird, once affected, 
may live for years but a positive cure is unknown. 

GOING LIGHT. — This disease is a form of consumption among 
pigeons. A bird affected mopes and is unable to fly. If caught its 
flesh will be found to be wasted away so that it is a mere skeleton, and 
diarrhea is always noticeable. Although the disease is not contagious, 
remove the bird from the pen so that it will be left undisturbed. Pull 
out the tail quills, inject a dropperful of sweet-fern tea or gentian (see 
tonics) in its mouth and place it out of doors in the sunshine. If the 
bird does not improve after a week of isolation, kill it. Another good 
remedy is to turn the bird loose on top of the fly after several days of 
the above treatment and feed it regularly. 

The most common causes are inability to moult, coupled with the 
run-down condition of the bird and, in the case of a hen, too hard 
driving by the cock bird. 

ROUP. — Roup is manifested by a slimy, yellow discharge from 
the nostrils and a foul breath. It is contagious and requires imme- 
diate care. Wash the nostrils and inject four or five drops of camphor- 
ated oil into each of them, as well as several drops into the mouth. 
Repeat this operation if necessary until a cure is effected. The cause 
is usually a neglected cold. 

WING TROUBLES. — Sometimes a bird may strike its wing acci- 
dentally in passing through the exit holes, and raise a lump on one of 
its wing joints. This lump is not dangerous but it spoils the appearance 
of the bird. An effective remedy is to paint the part affected with 
tincture of iodine, and if the wing droops pull out the larger quills. 

CHOLERA. — This is the most dangerous disease to which pigeons 
are subject. Having once taken hold of a flock of birds, it runs through 
it with fatal rapidity. The bird affected mopes and when it is examined 
its crop will usually be found to be puffed out with water. A copious 
green diarrhiea is always a symptom. It is advisable to kill the bird 
at once, as this disease is too terrible to risk any possible chance of 
contagion. 

Clean out the pen and disinfect thoroughly any part occupied by 
the sick bird. 

If the whole flock is threatened, add ten drops of carbolic acid to 
a two-gallon drinking-fountain of water for two mornings consecutively. 
Follow this treatment by giving fern tea in the drinking water every 
second day for a week. 

Since the cause of cholera can always be traced to filth, unsound 
grain and foul water, the industrious and intelligent pigeon raiser need 
never have cause to fight this disease. 

28 



TONICS 



TINCTURE OF IRON. — As a general tonic muriate tincture of 
iron is very effectual, and it is also useful in cases of diarrhea. Give 
it when required in the quantity of 5 drops to a gallon of water. 

FERN TEA. — This is a very simple and effectual remedy for loose- 
ness of the bowels. A teacupful in a two-gallon fountain of water is 
the usual dose. The tea is prepared by boiling about a handful of 
dried sweet-fern leaves in two gallons of water, letting it boil down 
one-half. The tea may then be used immediately or put aside in 
bottles and kept in a cool place. Sweet fern is botanically known as 
Myrica asplenifolia. 

GENTIAN. — As a general tonic to be given once a week during the 
moulting season — from August to November — or when otherwise 
required, gentian is unequalled. Procure what is known as the com- 
pound tincture of gentian and give a tablespoonful to a gallon of 
water. 

NUX VOMICA. — This makes a good tonic for the birds at any time 
under any conditions. Procure the tincture of nux vomica and add 
it to the drinking water in the portion of two teaspoonfuls to a 
gallon of water. If required, it may be given as frequently as once a 
week without any harmful effects. 



It is not advisable to dose the birds with medicines for any minor 
ailment which can often be remedied by simply removing the cause. 
The use of tonics should be confined principally to the raising of squabs 
for breeding purposes, to keeping the birds in condition during the 
moulting season, and to the cure of any sickness which might appear. 



29 



SUMMARY 

As previously mentioned, my observation has shown that the 
tendency of the beginner is to acquire his stock with as little expendi- 
ture as possible. On general principles his method is commendable, 
but he makes the serious mistake of believing that this is cheaper in 
the long run than to spend a little more and get his money's worth. 
He prefers quantity to quality. He should remember that birds which 
are sold for a low price are sold so because they are not worth any more. 

The ordinary common pigeon which is found in so many amateur's 
lofts should not be confounded with the Homer. It does not 'earn its 
salt' as a squab breeder. 

If possible, get the advice and assistance of some experienced 
person when ptirchasing stock. Get only mated birds to start with, 
get them from a breeder of whose business integrity you are reason- 
ably assured, and keep them in a pen entirely separate from any 
unmated birds. If a bird dies in the breeding pen, catch its mate 
and place it in another coop. The experienced pigeon raiser keeps a 
few odd birds to inate with those whose mates have died. 

Only sound, wholesome grain should be fed liberally, but not 
wastefuUy, for grain left on the floors to sour is a menace to the health 
of the birds. 

The coops should be cleaned regularly and the sand in the flying- 
yards kept fresh. The use of sand is the only preventative of the 
growth of that green mold which has often been known to cause cholera. 
Any considerable amount of snow should be removed as quickly as 
possible. Although the birds like to eat it, it causes a diarrhea which 
scours them. 

Pigeons should not be expected to breed steadily through the 
moulting season, though they do not fall off as noticeably as do chickens. 
Just previous to, and during, this period they should receive very 
careful attention. Plenty of strengthening feed — such as Canada 
peas — should be given in the rations, and millet and hemp should be 
fed as tonics in small quantities more often than during the rest of the 
year. 

The drinking fountains should be kept sweet and clean, and free 
from slime b}^ the regular use of a strong disinfectant. 

Dark squabs command only a small price in high class trade. They 
are generally the result of common stock, overfeed of wheat, or some- 
times the imperfect bleeding of the squabs when killed. Black-billed 
and black-legged breeders often have dark skins and through dark 
squabs. 

With careful and systematic attention, a flock of pigeons ought 
never be afflicted with vermin or any dangerous disease. One advan- 
tage which squab raising has over any similar industry is that a flock 
of birds recover very rapidh^ from any trouble as soon as the cause of it 
has been removed. 

30 



INDEX 

PAGE 

The Homer 5 

The Dragoon 6 

How TO Begin _ 7 

Mated Birds .' 7 

Site and Buildings 7 

Capacity ^ . . 8 

Plan ' . . 8 

Nest-boxes 11 

Light and Ventilation 11 

Other Requirements 12 

The Fly 12 

Size 12 

Other Necessities 14 

Feeding 15 

Varieties of Feed 15 

Time of Feeding 17 

Method of Feeding 17 

Rations 17 

Special Feeds 17 

Fresh Water 18 

Salt, etc 18 

Growth of Squabs 18 

Light-weight Squabs 20 

Transferring Squabs 20 

Preparing Squabs for Market 20 

Preliminaries 21 

Kilhng 21 

Dressing 21 

Cooling 21 

Sorting 22 

Shipping 22 

Raising Squabs for Breeders 22 

Selection 22 

Banding 22 

General Care 23 

Mating 24 

Telling Sex 24 

Keeping the Record 25 

General Management 25 

Cleaning 25 

Whitewashing 26 

Bathing 26 

Nesting Material 27 

Diseases and Remedies . 27 

Canker 27 

Vertigo 28 

Going Light 28 

Roup 28 

Wing Troubles 28 

Cholera 28 

Tonics 29 

Summary 30 



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